Restoration Basics

Everything deteriorates in time, wood deteriorates and cracks, metal corrodes, plastic and rubber become brittle, and paint fades.  This means that one either appreciates the item for what it is, or one restores it to what it was.  Restoration means to make an object look like and function like new.  It is not always appropriate to restore an item, however if necessary consider having it done professionally.  Restoration is not an easy task and requires experience.  However even the professional had to start somewhere.

If you are going to do it yourself, then consider the following guidelines:

·         Before you start, make sure you know the type of material that was originally used.  This includes the type of glue, paint, covering, etc. as well as the original process.  If you do not use the same material it is OK, however it is not true restoration.

·         Practice.  Get a junk camera if necessary.

·         Find people who have done the same process, and ask questions.  Use the internet as a source.

·         If the job is more for sentimental value than you need not be as precise.  But always make it clear that it is not a true restoration.

So with all of that being said, I like fixing cameras and I like making them look good.  It also helps sell cameras.  To do so I use many of the restoration techniques that are included in this section.  However I am aware that this is not true restoration.

Rolleiflex cameras are some op my favorite subjects, in particular, the Old Standard.  I have one that is far from restored, it is however totally intact and functional.  I keep it in this condition because it is a collectible item.  I have bought others that were in far worse condition, but for the sake of “restoration”.   One came to me having been haphazardly painted with black paint and also abused in other ways.  I stripped all the paint and leather, and repaired the shutter.  The lens was good.  Cameras of this vintage used nickel plated brass parts for the winding crank and other exterior metal parts.  The plating had worn off these parts.  So I buffed them to bring out brass shine (not original but very attractive). I repainted the black parts with spray enamel and replaced the leather with real leather.  I used black leather but was tempted to use maroon leather.  I replaced the mirror using the first-surface mirror from an old Polaroid SX-70.  For me this is now a great “user”.   I used many of the techniques include here.

To Restore Or Not

The topic of restoration always brings out a lot of varying opinions.  Many antique dealers will warn you that restoring a true antique (over 100 years old) may dramatically reduce its value, often by as much as 50%. 

Whether or not to restore depends on the found condition of the item and the value in the found state.  A very expensive item in found state should probably not be restored.  On the other hand an inexpensive item may justify restoration.  It all depends on the economics and the desires of the owner.  Sometimes value is mostly sentimental.

Most classic cameras are not true antiques.  However economic justification still applies.

Ken Hough restores large format Deardorff cameras.  He recently summed up a discussion on restoration as: “In my opinion if its old, ugly, rare and has been owned by someone famous DO NOT RESTORE.”  He added that if you do restore then “make sure that the exact type of paint, leather, etc. is put back on.”

Some collectors of old equipment are more concerned about the cosmetic condition of an object than the functional condition.  So a complete restoration may not be warranted.  Most, however prefer it to be fully functional.

Leather Cases

Repairing a leather camera case is not particularly difficult.

Material Needed:

·         Leather conditioner such as Lexol Conditioner

·         Several large/ blunt pointed needlepoint/tapestry needles – I use #5 Tapestry needles.  Also a large curved carpet needle for tight places.

·         Heavy Duty Polyester or Nylon carpet thread

·         Seam ripper

·         Barge Cement (This is the type of contact cement used in shoe repair.)

·         Awl

·         Small Scissors

·         Pair of pliers

·         Tweezers

The Process:

1.        Use the leather conditioner to soften the leather.

2.       Use the seam ripper and tweezers to remove the old stitching from one area at a time.

3.       Use barge cement to fasten the leather for stitching.  Do this in an area with good ventilation.

4.       Reopen the holes with a large needle or awl prior to stitching.

5.       Take a length of thread and attach a needle at one end, then a second needle at the other end.

6.       Run one needle through the set of opposing holes at one end of the section to be repaired.  It is easiest to use the awl to enlarge the holes prior to stitching.  Allow an equal length of thread on each side of the material.

7.        Take one of the needles and run it through the next set of opposing holes.  Run the other needle through the same holes but in the opposite direction.

8.       Continue this process across the entire section.  For tight places use the curved needle.

9.       After the last hole, go back 2-3 holes to strengthen the seam.

10.       Finally run just one of the needles back one hole so that both needles are on the same side of the leather.  Now tie off the two threads.  If possible, do this on the inside of the case.

Coverings

Before removing or replacing camera coverings it is important to know what was originally used and how it was attached.

Some old leather covered cameras used hide glue that is water soluble.  Some used Shellac as the original glue.

More recent cameras were covered with some form of leatherette.  It is not desirable to replace very old leathette, as it will not be smooth particularly if Pliobond was used.  If shellac was used then it may be possible to replace it.

The following are some methods that can be used to attach leather or leatherette:

-          3M super77 brushed on the surface (can be removed with turpentine while still damp)

-          Pliobond or other rubber/contact cements

-          Shellac works with leather and can easily be removed.

Refill Lettering

There are a number of techniques for refilling the etched numbers and letters on a camera or lens body.

·         Use latex paint over the lettering and then wipe it with wet tissue after it has set up.  The lens tissue will not remove the paint inside the engraving.  Use paint thinner on the tissue for oil based paints.

·         Use “Lacquer Paint-Stick” available form Micro-Tools in various colors.  Just rub over the engraving and then remove the excess with a rag.

·         Use enamel paint applied with a toothpick or negative retouching brush.  After a few minutes wipe off the excess with your finger-tip.  Finally, this person suggests wiping off the residue with a little bit of spit.  Great results are reported.   

Cosmetics

The following tips were provided by Mark Overton:

* Cosmetic Repair:  A bead-blaster loaded with fine grit can be used to remove shiny rub marks from satin chrome. Be careful to not hit any one spot too long or hard, or you'll strip off the chrome there.   A medium grit gives a grayer and duller surface, but still looks fine.   Before blasting, mask off all shiny chrome, glass and painted areas. Engraved writing might need to be re-inked after blasting.  Above all, practice first on a junker!   Hold the insides of the front and back sides of the cover when blasting them, or else the powerful blast will bend them inward.  Medium grit is what I used recently on a badly rubbed top cover for my Retina IIc.  Looks great now. A friend of mine enthusiastically suggested this.  Now I know why.

* Another tip: Stubborn deposits and even light tarnish can be removed from chrome by rubbing it vigorously with toothpaste.  It contains a very fine grit which scrubs off stubborn stuff.  (No jokes about this making your camera "minty"!)

* Dented filter ring on a lens:  I put the ring on a piece of wood with a matching arc cut in it, and use a dowel with slightly curved end.  Tap out the dent starting at the ends of the dent, working towards the center.  Done carefully, there will be scarcely any visible artifact, and filters will fit.

* Shutters: Gently rubbing the blades with a cotton bud (Q-tip)  soaked with CRC Electronics Cleaner does a good job of unsticking  a shutter that's stuff due to lube drifting onto the blades.  A partial disassembly of the shutter will allow you to partly open the blades, letting you clean the overlapping surfaces. Clean both sides this way, and the shutter will likely run for years with no further sticking.   Stiff irises can also be cleaned this way.  I apply fine oil to escapements using a fine Swiss oiler (black handle) obtained from micro-tools.

* Solvents:  Lighter fluid (I use charcoal lighter) is terrific for removing oil and grease from anything.  When washing blades of shutters and irises, I dip the blades in lighter fluid and wipe them twice using different pieces of cloth, holding them with just tweezers.  A Q-tip soaked in lighter fluid is great for cleaning oil lube in many places.    But be careful not to leave cotton fibers behind.

* Tools: A wax shaper, or "leatherette scraper" from Micro-tools is invaluable for peeling off leatherette without damaging it.

Kodak Folding Cameras

The following is from Kodak Tech Data - “How to Restore an Antique Camera”

Perhaps you found it in an attic, or you've just rushed home from an auction, a garage sale, or a pawnshop with your treasure--a vintage camera. Upon close examination, perhaps your enthusiasm changed to dismay as you noticed the scratches and scars on the outer casing, the tarnished metal parts, and the dry, brittle bellows. These are honorable scars, attesting to many years of faithful service. Don't be discouraged. A few hours of work can make an amazing difference in the appearance of your camera.

The first thing that needs attention is the leather covering of the camera. Repairing the covering first will help to keep pieces of leather from breaking off as you handle the camera. If the covering is separating from the camera body, gently lift it as far from the body as you can without breaking it, and brush or blow away any accumulation of dried glue or dirt. Then glue the covering back in place with white glue. When the leather covering is in safe condition for handling, remove all the parts that will need attention. On most cameras, the lens and shutter assembly are held in place by a retaining ring inside the bellows. Close the bellows as far as possible, and remove the retaining ring from inside the back of the camera. Then remove the lens and shutter assembly.

With those cameras that have a separate lens and shutter, you can leave the lens mounted right in the camera body when you remove the shutter. On most other cameras, the lens board is attached to the bellows by several screws. Remove the lens board and slide it off the focusing track. If you remove the sliding bars that lock the front cover open, you can swing the cover out of the way and have better access to the bellows. Next, remove any metal parts from the outside of the camera. This will allow you to re-dye the camera covering without getting dye on the metal parts. You'll also be able to clean the metal parts much more easily without damaging the covering material.

Disassembling the camera will probably take you about an hour. With the simpler models, it will be easy to see where each part will go during reassembly. If you have a complicated model, lay the parts out in order of disassembly; then reassemble them in reverse order. Notes or diagrams may help.

Now carefully clean the leather parts of the camera to remove dust and dirt. A mild detergent will probably work, but for stubborn stains, cleaning fluids or a commercial leather cleaner may be required. Extend the bellows--gently--to clean all the crevices and folds. Do not use detergent, cleaning fluid, or leather conditioner on paper bellows. After cleaning, allow the leather to dry thoroughly.

Now you can probably see scars, scrapes, and gouges that were covered up by dirt. Just apply some leather dye of the proper color to the leather parts, including the bellows (if it is leather). Allow the dye to become completely absorbed. If necessary, use a second coat to cover the leather evenly. A good coating of leather conditioner will complete the job. Let the leather absorb as much conditioner as possible. Wipe off any excess; then polish briskly with a clean, soft cloth.

The bellows is a particularly critical area. Let the leather conditioner soak in for several hours to make the bellows as flexible as possible. If it is in really bad condition, you may be able to purchase a new one from one of these suppliers:

Universal Bellows Company

25 Hanse Avenue

Freeport, NY

(516) 378-1264

Flexible Product Company

14504 60th Street North

Clearwater, FL 33520

(727) 536-3142

Be sure to supply the measurements of your bellows. These companies may not have a replacement bellows of the exact size you need, but they may have one in stock that is close enough to fit your camera. If you don't want to tackle replacing the bellows, the above companies may do it for you. Just be sure to ask before sending your camera.

The following company makes custom bellows to fit older cameras:

Turner Bellows, Incorporated

526 Childs Street

Rochester, NY 14606

(716) 235-4456

Now that the leather is finished, look at the metal parts. Most of them are nickel-plated or solid brass. Either type can be restored to its original brightness with metal polish. If you plan to keep the camera on display, a coating of paste wax will protect the metal from air and slow the formation of tarnish. For brass parts, polyurethane varnish, clear lacquer, or clear enamel will provide better protection than paste wax.

Clean the lens and viewfinder by brushing off surface dirt and then using lens-cleaning tissue or a cotton swab dampened with KODAK Lens Cleaner (or equivalent). Do not use papers or solutions intended for eyeglasses, because they can damage lens coatings. If any black-painted metal parts are chipped, a bit of flat black enamel will restore them to their original appearance.

After everything is dry, reassemble your camera and display it proudly!

Kodak is a trademark.